Porsche Tiptronic ATF Change

Disclaimer - The Motor Portal provides this article, which was written by an unaffiliated party, for your information only and does not in any way imply or guarantee its accuracy or the safety of the procedures outlined. In addition, this may or may not apply to other similar Porsche models. By reading further and in performing any activity outlined on this page you proceed solely at your own risk.

Parts list: 5 quarts ATF-Dexron III, pan gasket seal (PN 943 321 123 06), strainer round seal (PN 943 307 041 00), sealing ring (set of 3) (PN 900 123 007 30), sealing ring (set of 2) (PN 900 123 116 30), drain plug sealing ring (PN900 123 104 30), round seal for ATF Indicater Tube (PN 943 397 032 00)

Tools required: Torx T27, Torx T40, torque wrench capable of 6 to 29 ftlb, 4 feet of ½” I.D. clear vinyl hose, 10mm socket, 10mm wrench, crescent wrench, Phillips screwdriver

Jack the car up off the ground and level it. I jacked up both sides of the car and placed two pieces of 2” x 6” boards under all four tires to get some initial clearance to get under the car. After removing the engine cladding (photo 1) with a (10mm socket) I placed the floor jack under the largest section of the engine case (with a piece of ¾” plywood to protect the case) and jacked the rear of the car up until I could place two jackstands under the jacking points just ahead of each rear tire. I lowered the car down onto the jackstands but left the boards under the tires for additional safety.

Remove the transmission underbody cladding (photo 2) (forward of the engine cladding) (10mm plastic nuts and bolts and 4 phillips screws.)

Remove ATF pan by removing the hollow bolt that is connected to the ATF Indicater Tube and remove the 6 fixing bolts (that hold the pan on)(Photo 3). Note that there is a seating block with each bolt. The 4 widest ones are at the corners of the pan and the 2 narrow ones are one each at the longest sides of the pan.

Remove the 3 bolts that hold the ATF strainer on with the T27. (photo 4 and 5)

Thoroughly clean strainer, pan and 2 magnets in the pan. Fit the strainer with a new O-ring round seal. Re-install strainer and tighten bolts with 6 ftlb pressure.

Fit the pan with a new sealing gasket and tighten the fixing bolts to 6 ftlb pressure. (run a fine film of new transmission fluid where the new seal meets the top of the pan and the top of the seal where it will contact the transmission.) Always “cross-tighten” the bolts so the pan tightens up equally around the contact areas. Replace the drain plug at 29 ftlb pressure. Reinstall the hollow bolt in the side of the pan. Note: I noticed that as I was getting ready to reinstall the bolt that the ATF level tube itself had a very dark film inside of it and figured I would not be able to read the new ATF level if I did not clean it somehow. I removed the whole assembly from the transmission. I injected some carb cleaner into the tube then pushed several small diameter and flexible pieces of material into the tube and rubbed most of the film away. The parts list described at the beginning of this instruction includes the new seals required to reassemble the tube. Torque the hollow bolt to 29 ftlbs.

Remove the cap bolt and leave the rest of the connection attached to the transmission. Slip the vinyl hose over the connection (photo 6) and route the other end of the hose out and over the right rear tire. Insert a funnel to aid in filling. Fill transmission with fluid up to the 30 degree centigrade (86 degree F) max. mark via the “quick fill” connection. You should be able to add about 3 to 3 ½ quarts initially. Don’t be alarmed if the fluid does not race into the tranny. Porsche has a device to rapid fill but the hose works fine. (I don’t know if my ATF was low when I started but in the end I poured just a couple tablespoons short of 5 quarts back in before I got to the recommended level.) Start the engine and let it warm up while checking for any leaks.

Knowing that the ATF level was going to rise as the fluid came up to full operating temperature, I added fluid until the level was at the Max line above the 30 degree mark. There is a check-ball in the quick-fill connection so when you remove the hose, you will not lose fluid. Remove the hose and replace the cap bolt and just snug it on for now.

Get your car back on its tires and go for a test drive. I drove about 4 miles carefully listening to and “feeling” the car. I checked the underbody for leaks half way through the drive and returned home. I drove the car up on 2 pieces of stacked 2x6 blocks under the rear tires to level the car in my garage AND to give me some work room.

Re-install the hose and top off as required (refer to Note below). Replace the cap bolt and torque to 22 ftlbs.

NOTE: The current marks on the oil level guage are incorrect per Porsche. The new range for optimum re-fill is between the current “MAX” line above the 80 degree mark and to an imaginary line .59 inches above it. I sure was glad I cleaned that tube out!

I test drove the car in the neighborhood before returning to the garage to replace the engine and transmission cladding so I could ensure there were no leaks.

I realized that it was not just positive thinking but my car in fact was shifting so much smoother. It was fun learning how to perform this maintenance and doing it for $40 in fluid and parts versus over $450 at the dealership! Happy motoring! Joe Linder, Eugene Oregon (Feb 2006) (photo 7)

Porsche Workshop Manual Reference pages 37-116, 38-101, 38-103, 38-104 and photos:

Four: Transmission showing pan removed, strainer in place, fill tube assembly and quick-fill device.